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Carnet de voyageLa route des hommesSeptembre 2003 - Août 2004 Un an pour aller à la rencontre du Moyen Orient, de l'Inde et de l'Asie du Sud-Est |
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Carnet de voyageLa route des hommesSeptembre 2003 - Août 2004 Un an pour aller à la rencontre du Moyen Orient, de l'Inde et de l'Asie du Sud-Est |
| 13 avril 2004 |
 Cambodge - Kep
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La journée est déjà toute programmée et s'annonce mouvementée avec l'ascension jusqu'à la ville abandonnée de Bokor, la balade dans la jungle alentours puis la fin de journée à Kep, station balnéaire du temps des Français, ensuite abandonnée puis squattée avant sa récente tentative de réhabilitation.
Surprise au départ ! Nous sommes en réalité 9 à prendre place dans ce pick-up qui ne comprend que 3 places à l'abri des ardeurs du soleil... Faute de confort, nous aurons les rencontres... 
Il est donc 8h30 quand nous prenons la route de la montagne, en compagnie de Marcus, Gallois peu bavard mais aussi de Céline et Jean-Jérome qui sont comme nous en voyage pour un an. Pour cette laborieuse ascension vers la montagne notre chauffeur et son copilote avaient pris soin de tapisser le fond du pick-up d'un édredon, se souciant peu du fait que ce dernier accessoire ait dû prendre l'eau ou un liquide quelconque à plusieurs reprises jusqu'à être imprégné d'une odeur de moisi très très prononcée et tout autant incommodante. 
On s'habitue à tout et puis les odeurs de la montagne prennent vite le dessus : la végétation croit à une vitesse vertigineuse alors que nous progressons dans la réserve. La jungle est dense et, lorsque nous arrêtons notre moteur, une vie insoupçonnée se manifeste par des chants et des cris parfois inquiétants ! 
Cette impression ira croissante jusqu'au sommet de la montagne où se trouvent les vestiges d'une maison du roi. Ayant servi de camp retranché pendant la guerre, cette bâtisse est complètement délabrée mais offre toujours un superbe panorama jusqu'au Golfe du Siam. Non loin de là, notre chauffeur nous indique l'ancien casino qui servait de Q.G. aux soldats Vietnamiens pendant la guerre. Une équipe de réalisation coréenne y tourne un film et l'ambiance est surréaliste tant il est difficile de déceler ce qui provient du décor pour le film du matériel laissé sur place par les belligérants. 
Tout cela est assez sinistre mais, heureusement, à quelques pas le silence est à nouveau complet et on est seul avec les bruits de la jungle. 
D'ailleurs, c'est un peu ce que nous devions tous rechercher en demandant à aller faire un petit tour hors du sentier, dans la jungle à proprement parler. La végétation absorbe notre petite troupe en quelques minutes et nous tâchons d'avancer à pas de loup, écartant fougères et feuilles piquantes chacun notre tour. 
Nous observons des plantes carnivores et de nombreuses orchidées sur les troncs d'arbres mais évitons de signaler quoique ce soit pour que notre guide ne se fasse pas un devoir d'aller arracher tout le pied pour nous le donner ! 
Comment lui dire qu'il ne peut pas tout arracher comme cela, qu'avec le développement du tourisme c'est toute la forêt qui sera menacée ? Comment lui faire voir l'environnement différemment alors que la conscience écologique semble si loin de ses préoccupations ? Voilà un dilemme auquel nous aurons été confrontés tout au long de notre périple et qui, si désolant soit-il, ne nous laisse pas entrevoir de solution miracle. Quand enfin l'éducation aura touché le plus grand nombre, les comportements deviendront peut-être plus responsables et la conscience dépassera les intérêts de l'individu !
En début d'après-midi, il est temps de redescendre de notre promontoire pour aller à Kep. La toux de notre chauffeur semble avoir empiré depuis ce matin et il est vrai qu'il n'a pas l'air très bien en point... Du coup, plus personne ne veut monter à l'intérieur avec lui, par crainte de recevoir ses miasmes à la figure ! 
Nous finissons le trajet tous à l'arrière du pick-up et profitons d'une route superbe jusqu'à Kep, ville côtière présentant peu d'intérêt, si ce n'est le spectacle décadent de maisons françaises éventrées, effondrées et toujours habitées... 
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